People and Places

On this stay in Ghana, three of my friends from business school visited and forced me to explore Accra more than I had previously cared to. These are some of the things I enjoyed doing. You will see some common threads of touristy things but also a yearning for the old.

1. +233 – The aptly named spot is on Ring Road central, between the Ako-Adjei interchange and the Kanda overpass. I spoke to one of the managers and learnt it was set up by three brothers for the 2010 World Cup. They brought their skills to bear so that you have a wide open space with the dark, starry African night as your ceiling, food and drinks overseen by one brother, and live Jazz music overseen by another. It is a very calming atmosphere, even romantic, and the food is affordable. On Sundays, you are treated to a live performance by Gyedu Blay-Ambolley, one of the pre-eminent Ghanaian musicians of old.
2. Chez Afrique – This East Legon joint is another place where live music and food mix at night. This one gives a blend of highlife, the smooth Ghanaian music of old, some hiplife—a blend of hip hop and highlife—and a touch of reggae from Marley to Dube. In contrast to +233 where the band is behind a glass wall, there is a dance floor where dancers interact freely with the musicians.
3. Labadi Beach Reggae Wednesdays – A GH₵5 charge will grant you access to this wide expanse of white sands and the roaring Gulf of Guinea where interspersed with the nicely decorated tables and chairs for drinks are pots of fire in the sand and an elevated stage with live reggae music spanning local creations, Peter Tosh, Bob Marley and Culture. It provides a nice mix of expatriates and locals if you are inclined to that atmosphere and you can dance your heart out into the wee hours of the dawn.
4. Buka – This is a surprisingly affordable restaurant in Osu with a nice afro feel and food from Nigeria, La Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana. With bamboo paneling, wooden décor and a large neem tree blowing a nice breeze, the only anomaly is the flat panel blaring “Whip My Hair”. You can also down your grilled tilapia and banku, jollof rice and goat stew, ampesi and kontomire stew or fufu and groundnut soup with my preferred non-alcoholic frozen fresh palm wine which you can make alcoholic by fermenting through letting it sit. Do go after 1pm however because they are woefully understaffed and the food takes long in coming.
5. Bojo Beach – The traffic to and from this haven off the Accra-Cape Coast highway is horrible, and the road from the highway to the beach is a shame. It could take you anywhere from an hour to two from the center of Accra to get to this beach. The view of Bojo will wipe those memories away. Located on a sandbar between the Gulf of Guinea and a lagoon, one has to cross a moat and the river to get to it. The cruise, access to the beach and amenities will cost you GH₵6 and you are not allowed to bring food or drinks. Not to worry, they are relatively affordable. The beach itself has thatch structures providing shade, a volleyball net, a jet ski at GH₵15 per 5min cruise and a very swimmable sea. You can stay all day long. I have been here a few times and thoroughly enjoyed them all.

These are of course only a smattering of the many enjoyable places in Ghana – my friends went to Cape Coast and Kumasi among others – but these are the places I recently found and was thrilled to see exist. Next time you are in Ghana (and you should go to Ghana), try them out.

Prime

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This is the way I choose, the destiny I pursue
To help the unfit and the fit
To treat each according to his need
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Ghana My Happy Home

I have been told that my blog entries are “too long” so I will try to economize words and subjects in this one. As those on facebook already know, I arrived in Ghana on December 20th after a long flight which just barely missed the impending snowstorm in new york—ah those were the days of prayer. Well to repeat what fb already knows again, just when the pilot announced the beginning of our descent, Bob Marley’s Africa Unite started on my ipod with the lyrics “Africa unite ‘cos we’re moving right out of Babylon and we’re going to our father’s land”. It was an apt welcome into my beloved home land and when the humid air at 27.2C (81F) hit my three-layer clothed self, I made the sign of the cross and thought “it’s good to be home”. It is good to be home and I’ve been singing the following song (I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the lyrics but I capture the essence) ever since:

Ghana my happy home,
Land of rich resources,
Land of mighty talent, racial tolerance, justice and freedom.
I will fight for thee, O my Ghana, I will die for thee, O my Ghana
I will uplift thy name, in all I do, justice and freedom.

What I find quintessentially Ghanaian, however, can sometimes be vexing for those who live here year-round. For instance, later in the evening on the day I came home, the lights suddenly went out—no it wasn’t a ghost story—the electricity had been cut as part of rationing by the Electricity Company of Ghana (ECG). See, our electric power is mainly hydroelectric generated from the one dam on the Volta Lake (the biggest man-made lake in the world). It’s supplemented by solar power and a second dam is in the works but I digress. Anyway, when the water level goes down, there is load rationing and the lights go off at different places at different times to enable sustainability. So here we all are watching the 11 channels of private and public tv and the lights go out. I am jumping and shouting for joy at this happy reenactment of my childhood and everyone else is grumpy. Dear reader, what would you have done? Can’t I be happy? I was happy and I’ll tell you why.

The longer I have stayed in the US, the more I have longed for home and that way of life – the complicated life made up of coal pots, firewood, smoke, lack of access to water and that most unique characteristic of that life – family. For some reason, I have come to miss, love and yearn for my family more than I have in my life. Maybe it’s moving into a studio apartment or the intrinsic isolation of 3rd year medical school but I like to think I’m just growing to better appreciate what it is that family means. Family was always first with me but this time I know better what it takes to keep it together and I have felt more and more the need to belong in one. One of the things that make it possible is “light off” and when those lights gave out, we immediately went onto the porch and started a lively conversation ranging from the mundane to the political. It was a family moment so thoroughly enjoyed.

Another family moment is eating together. Most Ghanaian dishes are prepared to be eaten by hand and at least in my family, it used to be a family affair; four or so sets of right hands eating from a single bowl, four or so sets of heads conferring at a meal-time ritual exchanging ideas, planning, advising, being together. We are moving a bit away from that now as the times and demands of work put individuals on different schedules and make it impossible to spend time together as a family unit. I came to my village, Dabala, today. I’ll tell you the things I saw on the trip here and what the experience is now I’m here, in the next entry. In the meantime, I will continue to consort with the symphony of mosquitoes that have been singing such Christmas favorites as Silent Night and Santa Claus Is Coming to Town with local mixes like Agba Ee Mido Agba Nam A, Mewi Wo Mawi Wo Nkasei. Best wishes of the holidays. Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year.

Prime

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This is the way I choose, the destiny I pursue
To help the unfit and the fit
To treat each according to his need
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